Mpartwe (Alice Springs) and Oorammina Station

Sep 2, 2023

Good evening from Ooraminna Station, 30 kms south east of Alice Springs (Mparntwe in the language of the traditional owners, the Arrernte people). I'm sitting on the verandah of an old police station in the fading light of the day, next to a fire that Bob has just lit in the outdoor firepit. It's been a bit of a quiet week due to Josie and I being pretty under the weather with a nasty headcold. But we still got to see a few sights / have a few adventures in the meantime.

Before we left Mataranka we had a few more goes around the lazy river of Bitter Springs which proved very productive. On the Thursday evening Bob took the kids for a quick go before dinner where they were THRILLED to spot some turtles in amongst the plant life. I didnt want to miss out on swimming with turtles, so on the Friday morning we got up super early (for us!) and arrived at the springs to see the mist from the warm water rising into the cold air. Again, we were lucky enough to spot about a dozen turtles as we went around.

Turtle!

With that fitting goodbye we drove from Mataranka to Banka Banka, where we again slept in 2 shipping containers that had been converted into simple accommodation with a bed and shower. This time we were able to get the BBQ in the camp kitchen to work so our dinner of eggs and bacon sandwiches were much less hassle to prepare. We hit the hay early and got back out on the road to make it the 600 kms to Alice Springs.

Our official welcome to the Red Centre.

By the time we got into town I was feeling pretty rotten, and was pretty disappointed that I'd misinterpreted the description of the family villa that we had booked into as have a few more walls and doors than it ended up having. Which was none, aside from the bathroom. Sigh. So we commiserated over KFC, then had a very quiet two days and decided to splurge on a 2nd single villa so I wouldn't keep everyone up with my coughing all night. I'm SO generous like that!!

By Wednesday I was feeling a bit better, but also getting pretty cabin fevery, so with a mask on (and multiple negative RAT tests, naturally!) I took the kids to the Alice Springs Reptile Centre, which was VERY cool! We got there just in time for a talk from a lovely young woman about some of the key reptiles in the area. We were lucky enough to get to hold a few of her friends, which was pretty exciting!

Rachel the bearded dragon

Bluey the blue tongued lizard, which we learnt are actually the largest skinks in Australia

And here's Cleo the olive python!

Everyone was very brave, even me. I surprised myself by quite enjoying the reptiles, even finding myself swaying to and fro as I cradled Bluey in an attempt to keep him calm 🤣

In the evening we went to a nocturnal tour of the Alice Springs Desert Park, which was pretty amazing. The park has 3 recreated desert habitats, as well as a number of enclosures for particular birds and animals. For our evening visit we had a tour by the red lights of head torches through the Mulga Walk, a large enclosure that has been built to provide safe habitat for a number of vulnerable and endangered nocturnal species. We got to see several brush-tailed bettongs, malas and golden bandicoots, as well as an echidna, some greater stick-nest rats and four bilbies! We were very lucky to see some many of these very cute critters on this one walk!

Getting ready to head out on the nighttime stroll

More bilbies! So cute!

On the Thursday Josie was feeling a bit worse for wear after our late night, so she and Bob stuck close to home while me and the big two headed out for a bit more exploring. We went to Megafuna Central in town, which exhibits fossils of megafauna that were found 150 km north of Alice in Alcoota. The 8 million year old fossils are from species that have mostly become extinct (except of course the good old crocodile!) including the world's largest ever bird (check out the replica in the photo at the very top!).

Watching someone hard at work preparing the fossils

Having a go on a microscope

We visited the old Alice Springs Gaol which has been converted into a museum. It was fine, but Dubbo Gaol really did set the bar very high for that sort of thing! Then I dragged the kids to the Tangentyere Artists Aboriginal Art Centre, which I was particularly interested in visiting as it is an hub for art activities across the Alice Springs Town Camps, which is a name describing the local Aboriginal housing associations. I really loved the range of artistic styles on display, as well as the wide range of tea towels!

In the evening we attempted a new recipe for dinner, and version of spaghetti carbonara, and miracles of miracles, all 3 children ate it! It wasn't Toby's favourite, but he could bring himself to stomach it, so Bob and I (quietly) celebrated a huge win in finding a dinner option that was easy enough to prepare, even on camp stoves, that all 5 of us could eat. We even made a somewhat 'healthy' version, with light cooking philly cheese instead of cream and extra veggies. Winning!!!

On Friday morning we packed up yet again, and were actually out before check out time -we're getting better every time! We headed back to the desert park to see a few more highlights in the sunlight, including an brief but interesting talk about dingos.

Final breakfast at Desert Palms in Alice Springs - the night times and mornings are definitely getting cold!

The dingos really did seem to enjoying a bit of sunbaking

Some thorny devils, which truly are the oddest looking critters!!

The Australian Bustard, which did not improve my feelings on large birds in general which is already a bit 😕

Always happy to have a visit from a blue wren ❤

The park also had examples of all of the vegetation from the surrounding desert, and at this time of the year that includes huge numbers of wildflowers! They were so beautiful, like this desert rose.

After doing some damage at the gift shop we hit the road and headed out to Ooraminna Station, which is an interesting place. Its a big property about 30 mins out of Alice, and it has an odd collection of old buildings, some of which are used for accommodation, like the police station and gaol cell we're currently staying in.

The main building we are staying in, which has one big room with 3 beds and a fireplace, plus a lovely lean-to bathroom and open air kitchenette out the back, as well as....

The gaol cell, which has a very cool, very heavy old door that opens onto a very small room with 2 single beds. Toby is sleeping there as I type - he's very brave, but was also very motivated to have his own room again, even if just for 2 nights!

Nora our explorer

and our other intrepid adventurer!

The station also has some glamping tents, as well as a pretty large scale movie set of an abandoned frontier town. There have definitely been a few movies filmed here over the years, and apparently you can also have a wedding here?!?! I'm still not quite sure how this all came to be - the staff are lovely but pretty new and the owners are away so I can't ask all the probing questions I would like to - are the buildings all real/historical? Where they here originally or did they get moved here? I really want to know - the mystery is killing me!!

Anyways, the main homestead has a restaurant and bar and a lovely terrace overlooking the gorgeous view.

Watching the colours of sunset over the distant hills while we wait for dinner - later we got to see the moon rise, which was glorious.

There's also a truly stunning pool but in a clear sign that we're no longer in the tropics, the water is far too cold for us to swim in! I was hoping to try in the middle of the day today but we ended up with other plans!

Today we headed out to the East MacDonnell ranges, where we took Jen's advice and visited Trephina Gorge. Despite some whinging from Toby we took the Trephina Gorge Walk, estimated to take 1 hour, rather than the Trephina Gorge Ramble, estimated time 20 to 40 mins. As you can tell, we're not dealing with the most enthusiastic of walkers! But he always has a great time once he's out there, and today was no exception. The landscape is truly astonishing, and we felt really lucky that there was such an accessible way for us to experience it, without having to hike for hours (which just wouldn't be an option for our family 😞)

The family that does (short) hikes together!

Rugged and manly as always with his coffee!

My favourite discovery has been the number of purple wildflowers in the area, of all shades! They remind me of my garden and all of its purples 💜💜💜

A ghost gum that is over 300 years old

We also went to John Hayes Rockhole, and while we were a bit too tired (and put off by the many wasps) to do much exploring once we were there, the 4WD-ing in and out was very enjoyable!

Which brings me back to the start, back to the old police station in the fading light with a fire lit....

After a hot milo, some roasted marshmallows and a whole lot of stargazing we got the kids into bed and got a bit ready for yet another move tomorrow. We're off to the other side of Alice tomorrow, the West Macs, where we will reach the pinnacle of cribbing of the Gardiner's itinerary and spend a few nights camping in Palm Valley. Wish us luck!

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